The ABC of the sewn hat

The ABC of the sewn hat

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The ABCs of Sewn Hats is a digital reference book that covers technical concepts related to the making of patterned and sewn hats.

You'll find technical vocabulary as well as a description of the steps needed to sew your hats.

Destined for those who wish to make the discovery of this specialty as well as those who will deepen the techniques, this 18-page guide will accompany you as a formidable ally.

PDF format: static and standard format

Publin format: format that accommodates mobile devices (phones and tablets)

Questions and answers

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How do you choose your hat style?
A round or square cap? A wide, raised or narrow brim?
Which cuts and shapes suit you and which ones don't?
It's by trying on several styles of hats, paying special attention to the cuts and shapes that enhance your body type (height, shoulder width, neck, face shape...) that you will cultivate your personal style. Dare!

How to take the measurement of the head circumference.
With a tape measure, go around your head 1 cm above the eyebrow (see video Measuring a head circumference).
In the absence of a tape measure, take a string and transfer the measurement to a ruler.

What if my hat is too small?
Sizing up a sewn hat is difficult.
The seams located at the head entrance need to be undone and redone:
1- check the pattern's head circumference measurement
2- respect the width of the seam values
3- pull the thread normally when finishing the hat or sewing the grosgrain ribbon (pulling too hard will shrink the hat).

What if my hat is too big?
This is easier.
Sew a new grosgrain ribbon by spreading the excess hat over the length of the ribbon.
Sew by pulling normally on the thread.
Pulling a little too hard on the thread is also a way to shrink a hat that is a little too big (when finishing the hat).

What fabrics should I choose to make a hat.
Choosing the right fabric is an essential part of making a successful hat.
It should be a little thick, fairly stiff and easy to sew.
To look for:English embroidery, cashmere, chambray, hemp, denim, boiled/woven/felted wool, gabardine, linen, fleece, cotton poplin, twill, ultrasuede, velveteen, corduroy, tweed, twill...
Silk should be avoided because it is sensitive to the sun.
Leather is not a fabric but it can be perfectly suitable.
To be avoided: stretchy and too light fabrics.

What do you press the seams of a hat with?
Straight seams are normally pressed on an ironing board with an iron.
Rounded seams are pressed with a jeannette or with the my chapo pressing tool (see video Pressing a rounded seam).

Can I wash my hat?
It is not advisable to put a hat in the wash as it may warp, shrink and in addition, it will be difficult to press.
For the same reasons, it is not advisable to dry clean a hat.
For a light cleaning, remove the dirt with a damp cloth and mild soap. Rinse. Let dry.

What tools do I need to sew fabric hats?
You need to have everything you need to sew: a sewing machine, iron, ironing board, pressing tool (jeannette or my chapo), fabric scissors, paper scissors, pins, needles, tape measure, thread and fabric.

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